Bunya Mtns – just add water

The Bunya Mountains are part of the Great Dividing Range and an easy three hour drive (200km) NW of Brisbane. There are a number of routes from Brisbane, but I wanted to be away from the main highway so drove from Bris via Esk and Yarraman and then up into the hills. You certainly know you are climbing as the temperature drops noticeably, so do not forget warm clothing for the evenings. The Bunya Mountains National Park is home to the world’s largest stand of bunya pines, it was a meeting place for Aboriginal people, the centre of a timber industry and these days a perfect destination for bushwalking and a family holiday. I rented a little house but plenty of people camp in one of three well appointed campsites.

The first thing you notice in the Bunya village are the wallabies, they are everywhere. They have free range on the grasslands and I had a few dozen that called my garden home. They are unfazed by people but you need to drive slowly in case they dart across the road.

The next thing that grabs your attention is the birdlife. There are a couple of hundred species in the park and as you slow down a little and stroll through the forest, the bush becomes alive with bird calls. It is like an orchestra practising and the more you listen, the easier it becomes to pick out the different instruments, or birds. The whip bird and the cat bird are two that spring to mind. I was lucky enough to spot a whip bird poking around in the undergrowth. The cat bird produces a call that sounds like a cat in agony!!

Before I tell you about the wonderful bush walks, do not forget to try the bunya nut scones and jam at the coffee house. They are delicious and the magpies agree. People just don’t seem to pay any attention to the signs that say ‘don’t feed the birds’ and the magpie at my table clearly thought my scones were his scones… so beware!

The bushwalking is worth the effort. There are around 40 km of marked tracks and the degree of difficulty is ‘pretty easy’. I loved wandering through the cool rainforest on the eastern side of the Park. You are dwarfed by the massive bunya and hoop pines and the strangler figs give the forest an eerie feel especially as the light fades. The climbing steps carved into the trunks of the giant bunya pines remind you how important the bunya nut was to aboriginal groups. They traveled hundreds of kilometres along traditional pathways to climb the pines, harvest the nuts and hold special gatherings. The well made tracks constructed by timber getter and the few remaining red cedars are evidence that the Bunya Mountains were a rich source of timber.

On the western side of the Park between Paradise and Westcott, then up to Cherry Plain and further on to Burton’s Well, you are walking along the side of the Great Divide and the view across the plains is fabulous. But what caught my attention were the grass trees, they formed an avenue of honour in many places. Being spring, the grass tree spikes were in flower and the birds were having a field day gathering nectar. I was told to keep a look out for golden orchids and was lucky enough to spot a few small clumps.

But I was disappointed to see so much prickly pear. This aggressive cactus-like plant is a menace and it must be an ongoing job to keep it under control. Back in the early 1900’s this weed took over parts of Queensland. In the worst affected areas the prickly pear forests were impenetrable and made farming impossible. But thanks to scientists at the CSIRO an insect was introduced that effectively killed the prickly pear without harming native flora. It was the first successful biological control agent introduced into Australia. But it would seem, probably due to a lack of funding, things are out of control at the moment! 

Late in the afternoon or early in the morning is the time to head up to Mt Kiangarow, the highest point in the Park. It is an easy walk, the birdlife seems energised and noisy, and you might even see a paddy melon. At the summit I was entranced but the way the grass trees framed the view to the west. 

I love a good sunset and Fishers Lookout is the place to watch the sun sink below the horizon.

It is 2020 and the area is in desperate need of rain. I am determined to return after the drought breaks, I can’t wait to see the creeks flowing and the waterfalls gushing. I’d also like to come in winter, I am told the area gets the occasional snowfall.